But how did Critical Mass, a direct action that often sees cyclists in cities such as London set off multicoloured smoke bombs and enforce huge roadblocks in the face of angry motorists, end up being endorsed by the Ugandan authorities? The idea came from us following a similar Critical Mass held in Nairobi run by ordinary citizens, explains Judith Owigar, an organiser of the event from UN-Habitat in Kenya. So in Kampala I engaged different people to lead it: Fabio [First African Bicycle Information Organisation, a cycling NGO], Red Dirt Uganda mountain bike centre and Makerere University, which has a bike share programme. Then they contacted the cyclist community, says Owigar, adding that she hopes cyclists in Uganda will take ownership of the concept and organise future events.

At around 10am the cyclists set off (not before a suited big dog from KCCA hops on a bike at the front for a photo op), first to pick up other participants from Kampalas Independence Monument, and then on to Garden City mall before returning to Luwum Street. By distance, its a short ride about 2.5km but the hills and the heat dont make it easy. Still, the 100-odd participants seem to be enjoying themselves, laughing and taking selfies (admittedly not the best way to promote safe-cycling) while a glimmer of protest shines through when one group start chanting We want cycle lanes as they ride.

Ivan Watenya, a passerby, asks whats going on. Its very difficult to ride in this city, he tells me. And yet, for an environment which should be free of pollution, we need areas where we can ride easily. I would cycle if it was safe it would increase my fitness too.

But where there is change, there is always opposition something those pushing urban development initiatives are all too aware of. Judith Owigar points out peoples reactions to Placemaking Week on Luwum Street, where pictures of KCCAs urban development plans for the area are exhibited a move she says makes the authority more accountable to the public.

For many people, its really surprising that the KCCA is thinking of something like this. They have been asking: is this going to actually happen? Are there really going to be green lanes for bicycles? its such a strange concept for people, she says.

Is it a case of too much, too soon? Many Kampalans may feel they have more pressing causes to fight for than cyclist rights be they sexism, homophobia or a president who wants to amend the constitution to extend his 32-year reign. Whats more, the city has its fair share of roads without pavements or even tarmac let alone cycle lanes.

Local businessman Kubo Barabye, 55, is cynical. This wont work here. They are spending money putting this green paint on the road, but boda bodas will drive on it, street sellers will move on it, he says, citing the example of a public park the city authority put in place nearby, which only lasted a few days before it was spoiled.

Barabye is among a community of business people in the pilot non-motorised transport zone who are concerned that a reduction in the number of cars will mean a reduction in profits. It is a common perception in Kampala that people who travel by foot or bicycle are poor. We dont know how this cycling will affect our business, one owner of a clothing shop told me. I dont understand why they are promoting bicycles yes, I can cycle. But people have so many problems here, so we dont think about such things.

The glossy plans, free T-shirts, hi-vis and speeches from suited officials at the event do seem a world away from the lives of most people here. And trust in the government and city authority is low. They just care about receiving money and presenting an image that they are doing something, yet they are not doing anything. Its for their own benefit, argues bag seller Robert Kisitu, 24. Do you know why they are promoting bicycles? It will be because a politician or his family member is importing bikes to sell here. They are creating jobs for themselves, not us. And later, after their personal motives have been achieved, they wont bother about bicycles any more.

Whether there is anything in these suspicions or not, its clear that many remain unconvinced by the initiative. And it is easy to see why, amid their daily struggle, local people dont see the value of Critical Mass or the construction of cycle lanes. I speak to Edwin Barungi, 26, after hes finished the ride. I cycle every week, but considering what Uganda needs, these plans are like a luxury to me, he says. You have to change peoples minds before you put the infrastructure there. How many bikes will use this anyway? Its way ahead of time, but I guess theyre trying to catch up with the rest of the world.

Only time will tell whether the KCCA succeeds in making Kampala a safer, less-polluted, more bike-friendly city. Those who participated in Kampalas first Critical Mass seem delighted by the ride, and I hear them excitedly planning the next one. If these events are held regularly, Kampalas cycling community may play a role in raising awareness of the importance of cycling in a city made so dangerous by motorised transport. But for now, it seems most Kampalans have got too many other things on their minds.

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